Siezed Outdrive Pin

pistonbroker

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Have a siezed pin on the trim ram on my DPH-A. They can be pigs to get out but with effort, penetrative oil and rotation they shift. Got one drive off ok, but one pin on the other drives refuses to come out. Cannot rotate it even with the usual clandestine tools, wedges and knocking sticks. It's an older pin as well without the hex head making it substantially more difficult.

So question - anyone used an induction heater? Seems safer than naked flame. Also would you heat the pin or the housing? I would have thought you would heat the housing and then try and drive the pin out whilst the housing is hot. But I've also heard that if you heat the pin and let it cool naturally, it shifts the corrosion a bit a you have a casting and stainless pin with differing expansion rates, allowing you to drive it out cold.

Thoughts and experience most welcome welcome!
 

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Bouba

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I have an induction heater....really handy things....but I haven’t used it yet on seized bolts...although that’s why I got it...but sod’s law states that if you have it then you won’t need it..like an umbrella. But my research suggests heat it up and then spay an anti seizure liquid on it.... good luck
 

BruceK

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Plusgas and moderate heat to wick it in. If that doesnt do it try the opposite with FR90 freeze release
 

pistonbroker

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I have an induction heater....really handy things....but I haven’t used it yet on seized bolts...although that’s why I got it...but sod’s law states that if you have it then you won’t need it..like an umbrella. But my research suggests heat it up and then spay an anti seizure liquid on it.... good luck
Thanks, and yes sods law defies education for sure! Getting the timing right with heat and oil is going to be interesting, but might just work.... I'll feedback accordingly!
 

pistonbroker

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Plusgas and moderate heat to wick it in. If that doesnt do it try the opposite with

Plusgas and moderate heat to wick it in. If that doesnt do it try the opposite with FR90 freeze release
Just googled plusgas and it looks pretty good, the opposite angle with cold could work too, especially if I can drill the pin and inject in.

Some really good suggestions gents, thanks for your help.
 

Neil_Y

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Have a siezed pin on the trim ram on my DPH-A. They can be pigs to get out but with effort, penetrative oil and rotation they shift. Got one drive off ok, but one pin on the other drives refuses to come out. Cannot rotate it even with the usual clandestine tools, wedges and knocking sticks. It's an older pin as well without the hex head making it substantially more difficult.

So question - anyone used an induction heater? Seems safer than naked flame. Also would you heat the pin or the housing? I would have thought you would heat the housing and then try and drive the pin out whilst the housing is hot. But I've also heard that if you heat the pin and let it cool naturally, it shifts the corrosion a bit a you have a casting and stainless pin with differing expansion rates, allowing you to drive it out cold.

Thoughts and experience most welcome welcome!
ACF-50 is quite imptressive in what it has freed up, with Al and stainless corrosion
 

volvopaul

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The most ridiculous design pin ever.
I use a strategic wide chisel between the pin and the frame against another strategic metal piece I insert on to the H frame , never failed yet to get it moving , you can use plenty of heat if you trim the drive up so the flame is away from the trim cylinder , I also have a cordless angle grinder and often cut the head off the pin to allow it to drifted inwards , I then cut the pin in half , there is no way any old style pins go back in.
 

stelican

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The most ridiculous design pin ever.
I use a strategic wide chisel between the pin and the frame against another strategic metal piece I insert on to the H frame , never failed yet to get it moving , you can use plenty of heat if you trim the drive up so the flame is away from the trim cylinder , I also have a cordless angle grinder and often cut the head off the pin to allow it to drifted inwards , I then cut the pin in half , there is no way any old style pins go back in.
Sounds like a torture chamber.
 

pistonbroker

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The most ridiculous design pin ever.
I use a strategic wide chisel between the pin and the frame against another strategic metal piece I insert on to the H frame , never failed yet to get it moving , you can use plenty of heat if you trim the drive up so the flame is away from the trim cylinder , I also have a cordless angle grinder and often cut the head off the pin to allow it to drifted inwards , I then cut the pin in half , there is no way any old style pins go back in.
Thanks for replying. That's the technique I've been using was just conscious of not going too mad and end up breaking something, although the castings are pretty meaty. Definitely going to try heat first in combo with some of the pen oil suggested above.
The drives are relatively easy to remove and service but those poxy pins ruin your day!
New pins have arrived £17 each...
 

oldgit

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The transom casting can withstand a suprising amount of abuse and still live to fight another day.
Heat, patience and determination are the best weapons.
For those of us signed up to the "Brute Force" tendency, a old fashioned calor gas torch, a 4.5 L bottle of Butane and a couple of decent man sized hammers won the day on several occasions.
All at your own risk.
A course bit emery paper and tin of Trilux can hide an awful lot of unsightly and crispy burnt paint on a transom assembly.
 
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pistonbroker

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Thanks for all the replies, after several hours it finally shifted. For future reference in case its helps someone else.

An induction heater is useless for this, use a gas torch as per above. Trim the drive up as far as possible, and apply heat to the pivot points. Apply copious amounts of plusgas, be careful as its ultra flammable. Keep applying plusgas as it cools. Wedge a piece of timber next to the drive and whack a wide chisel between pin and timber. Keep whacking....and whacking....and whacking. Pin finally gives. Cut head off pin, apply more plusgas, and using a drift whack pin back towards drive. Use a small grinding wheel and cut pin, whack again until pushed through.

Sometimes you've got to be patient and use caveman tools. Lesson learnt....
 

Bouba

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Thanks for all the replies, after several hours it finally shifted. For future reference in case its helps someone else.

An induction heater is useless for this, use a gas torch as per above. Trim the drive up as far as possible, and apply heat to the pivot points. Apply copious amounts of plusgas, be careful as its ultra flammable. Keep applying plusgas as it cools. Wedge a piece of timber next to the drive and whack a wide chisel between pin and timber. Keep whacking....and whacking....and whacking. Pin finally gives. Cut head off pin, apply more plusgas, and using a drift whack pin back towards drive. Use a small grinding wheel and cut pin, whack again until pushed through.

Sometimes you've got to be patient and use caveman tools. Lesson learnt....
Well done👍👍👍 don’t worry you will find other uses for your induction heater....for example, entertaining friends 🤣😂
 

oldgit

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.....and just remember you will probably will be doing this dance of despair sometime again in the future.
should be dawning now what method of propulsion ought be pushing that next boat through the water ? :):):)
 

Bouba

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.....and just remember you will probably will be doing this dance of despair sometime again in the future.
should be dawning now what method of propulsion ought be pushing that next boat through the water ? :):):)
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