TAMD63P Stop solenoid

[philipdawsonladds]

I'm trying to resolve an issue with the stop solenoid - at the moment I have to manually switch off the engine using the fuel injection lever. Does the solenoid have a relay or not? I'm getting confusing feedback - I have looked inside the fuse box and there is a plug that looks like a relay but some say that there isn't one on this version of the engine. I might just take the plug out and check the part number but does anyone know the answer? Thanks

 

[John100156]

I had a similar issue on my last boat, with a stop solenoid on my port engine, it turned out to be a fault at one of the connectors in the loom, it had some corrosion around one of the pins. Cleaned and lubricated all terminals, and everything was fine thereafter. May be worth checking them?

 

[philipdawsonladds]

I can handle that - I'll give it a try

 

[VicS]

I'm trying to resolve an issue with the stop solenoid - at the moment I have to manually switch off the engine using the fuel injection lever. Does the solenoid have a relay or not? I'm getting confusing feedback - I have looked inside the fuse box and there is a plug that looks like a relay but some say that there isn't one on this version of the engine. I might just take the plug out and check the part number but does anyone know the answer? Thanks

There is a wiring diagram in your owners manual
It does not show a relay.
The only relay appears to be the start relay

 

[philipdawsonladds]

There is a wiring diagram in your owners manual
It does not show a relay.
The only relay appears to be the start relay

Thanks, I hadn't spotted that. I'll check the connections which I'm guessing go through the electrical box on the side of the engine.

 

[John100156]

Before I found my defective connector, having checked the Volvo engine manual wiring diagram, I temporarily installed a cable into the 'box on the engine' so I could stop the engine easily, just cant remember how I did it now off the top of my head but I recall it was quite simple, I am on my way back to the UK today, but can check my old boat notes at the end of this week, if you do not get it sorted before then - best of luck....!

 

[philipdawsonladds]

Before I found my defective connector, having checked the Volvo engine manual wiring diagram, I temporarily installed a cable into the 'box on the engine' so I could stop the engine easily, just cant remember how I did it now off the top of my head but I recall it was quite simple, I am on my way back to the UK today, but can check my old boat notes at the end of this week, if you do not get it sorted before then - best of luck....!

Thanks that would be very helpful - the solenoid is quite a stretch from the access panel and not being sure how to disconnect the cable I don't want to damage anything by pulling too hard in the wrong direction - not sure how it connects - manual doesn't help. Thinking the worst I am researching options for a replacement ignition switch or solenoid - both 24v in my case - I've found a replacement but it doesn't specify 12v or 24v so probably a non-starter (excuse the pun)

 

[John100156]

OK - I checked my notes this morning and have compiled the following which I hope helps:

 

[John100156]

Just a couple of typo corrections:

.1 In the red text under STOP SOLENOID omit 'via the stop relay' as there is only one 'start relay' as discussed later.
.2 Under IGNITION SWITCH I note a new word energigses which is a technical term that means energises !

 

[philipdawsonladds]

Thanks - very impressive! I had found the junction box and 2 fuse buttons, both of which appeared to be fully in - yes, inside the box I found just one relay which I now know is for the starter motor (thanks) - the solenoid itself appears to have the wiring connector on the top with a screw holding it place (I think) - so I aim to unscrew this without dropping the screw into the bilge so that I can run a positive 24v charge from the battery (the ignition switch might well be easier though). I have attached a photo of my solenoid showing what I think is the connector - correct? How did you wire your temporary switch - to the solenoid or the cable behind the ignition?

 

[philipdawsonladds]

BTW where did you find this much detail - I have the operators manual and workshop manual but they have nothing like this level of information.

 

[volvopaul]

The valve not the coil is susceptible to seizing up , take it off and soak it in brake cleaner and push the valve with a small screwdriver, if you look close you can see the ports close to block the fuel flow, then fit it back to the coil and watch it while someone turns the key , if it doesn’t move remove it then place a screwdriver inside the coil hole , apply the stop again and see if the magnet grabs the screwdriver, if it doesn’t then it’s electrical problem.
If it does then you have a fuel supply issue whereby the fuel enters the pump via the return pipe .
Fuel tanks that have a stack tube on the return can allow fuel back to the pump if the PMV has failed , common problem on that Bosch pump .

What make and model of boat is it?
plenty for you to test

 

[philipdawsonladds]

Thanks - the list of things is getting longer by the day! The engines are in an Atlantic 42

 

[John100156]

Good advice as always from VP. I made my jumper connection in the Junction box itself and it worked so had no need to look further, if your wiring is the same as mine, it was the violet cable but mine was 12VDC, before you test with a +ve cable make sure yours is 24VDC or simply use the 1 and 2 terminals as shown in the diagram above, which should put the correct feed onto the stop solenoid. If you send me your email via a personal message, happy to send you a pdf copy of the TAMD63P OWNERS MANUAL where the above info was taken.

 

[John100156]

Atlantic-42 Nice Boat BTW.

 

[John100156]

I just looked at the picture and can see your solenoid is clearly 24VDC best of luck sorting this out!

 

[philipdawsonladds]

The valve not the coil is susceptible to seizing up , take it off and soak it in brake cleaner and push the valve with a small screwdriver, if you look close you can see the ports close to block the fuel flow, then fit it back to the coil and watch it while someone turns the key , if it doesn’t move remove it then place a screwdriver inside the coil hole , apply the stop again and see if the magnet grabs the screwdriver, if it doesn’t then it’s electrical problem.
If it does then you have a fuel supply issue whereby the fuel enters the pump via the return pipe .
Fuel tanks that have a stack tube on the return can allow fuel back to the pump if the PMV has failed , common problem on that Bosch pump .

What make and model of boat is it?
plenty for you to test

Just back from the boat - tested the ignition switch and all OK with power in and out - tested the power feed down to the "solenoid" and positive when key turned to stop = problem with the fuel valve unit itself I guess. I'll follow your recommendation to remove and soak in brake fluid and test again. What is the PMV??

 

[philipdawsonladds]

Obvious question (?) - I need o shut off the fuel supply before removing the valve I guess, although there will still be fuel in the filters OR is this not a concern as the fuel arrives at the stop valve via the return feed??

 

[volvopaul]

Just back from the boat - tested the ignition switch and all OK with power in and out - tested the power feed down to the "solenoid" and positive when key turned to stop = problem with the fuel valve unit itself I guess. I'll follow your recommendation to remove and soak in brake fluid and test again. What is the PMV??

Pressure maintains valve on the pump

 

[philipdawsonladds]

So if this is still OK I can remove the valve for cleaning without fuel pouring out? I will turn off the fuel supply in any event.