Harken Furler no cost fix.

rotrax

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The OE Harken Cruiser jib furler on our Island Packet suffered a siezed to the foil top swivel.

The local rigger went up the mast, removed the shackle from the head of the sail, allowing me to drop the sail, he then attached a rope to the shackle which allowed me to attach a block at the deck end and winch it down the foil using the mast winch. It was bloody tight!

Upon close inspection it looked good. When measured the plastic bushes a were smaller internal diameter than the foil. Harken UK at Lymington were very helpful and sympathetic but could not supply bushes, or indeed a new top swivel. They could, however, supply a complete new furling system.................... :(

I wrongly assumed the plastic bushes were made of a hygroscopic material and had swollen through moisture absorbtion during the 16 years of their life. I set to to remove them and make new ones. Getting the spiralox circlips out was the first issue. By drilling a 1.5mm hole just above the circlip grooves I was able to prise them out using a tiny instrument screwdriver. My 50 ton press has long gone-to a forum member, who, I hope, is using it for its intended purpose-so I raided the scrap bin and found a steel top hat with a 20mm hole through the middle that was marginally larger than the I/D of the bushes and the OD of the bushes. A couple of minutes on my lathe and I had my 'bush pusher'. I used my new Lidl angle grinder stand and cut a length of steel scaffold tube long enough to take the pressed out bushes. I then cut a bit of 25mm S/S tube to be my pushing tube. Two heavy plates, a length of 12mm studding and two nuts and I was ready.

The nuts were tightened, the bushes remained firmly in place. A bit more tightening and I heard a 'crack' , and they started to shift. They came out OK, three of them, and I could see the problem. The protective paint finish on the internal bore of the swivel had failed and white powdery corrosion had built up behind them, squeezing the bushes tightly against the foil. I have come across aluminium motorcycle brake calipers where oxidation had built up behind the rubber seals, causing non retracting brakes. Same issue.

By carefully cleaning the white aluminium oxide out with an emery bob until shiny, priming and re-painting the internal bore I found that the bushes pressed in by hand. The new measurement gave a clearance to the foil too. I fitted the retaining circlips, reassembled the swivel's torlon balls and braring track, all looked like new - a real result.

First Mate and I fitted it today, re-tensioned the rig, new cotter pins and hoisted the jib.

Saved about £4K...................:)
 
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jwilson

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Having replace a dying "no serviceable parts" furler with a new complete system (from a different manufacturer - why reward bad engineering) I wish I had your engineering skill. The problem with the original furler was "pressed in" and "sealed for life" bearings that no local rigger would touch.

I know a small local engineering workshop that could almost certainly have sorted the old furler but that would have meant liftout, crane to remove mast, unknown time ashore etc. etc. New furler one day job and a hit to the bank card.
 

rogerthebodger

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Having replace a dying "no serviceable parts" furler with a new complete system (from a different manufacturer - why reward bad engineering) I wish I had your engineering skill. The problem with the original furler was "pressed in" and "sealed for life" bearings that no local rigger would touch.

I know a small local engineering workshop that could almost certainly have sorted the old furler but that would have meant liftout, crane to remove mast, unknown time ashore etc. etc. New furler one day job and a hit to the bank card.

Seales fr life means when it breaks the life is over

If I was in the UK I would be over to get the broken Furler and fix tr for my boat
 

westernman

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Having replace a dying "no serviceable parts" furler with a new complete system (from a different manufacturer - why reward bad engineering) I wish I had your engineering skill. The problem with the original furler was "pressed in" and "sealed for life" bearings that no local rigger would touch.

I know a small local engineering workshop that could almost certainly have sorted the old furler but that would have meant liftout, crane to remove mast, unknown time ashore etc. etc. New furler one day job and a hit to the bank card.
Why do you need to crane out the mast to change a furler?

Tie a piece of string from the top of the mast to the front of the boat to hold it up, and then lower the furler.
Can be done afloat - including installing the new one.
 

jwilson

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Why do you need to crane out the mast to change a furler?

Tie a piece of string from the top of the mast to the front of the boat to hold it up, and then lower the furler.
Can be done afloat - including installing the new one.
I would not do this job afloat, unless it could be done in one day. No guarantee a fix was possible quickly - could in fact not be fixable and hence weeks+ wait for a new furler. I would not like to leave a deck stepped mast afloat without a proper forestay that long. 3 different riggers and the furler manufacturer said the furler was non-repairable.
 

rotrax

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I would not do this job afloat, unless it could be done in one day. No guarantee a fix was possible quickly - could in fact not be fixable and hence weeks+ wait for a new furler. I would not like to leave a deck stepped mast afloat without a proper forestay that long. 3 different riggers and the furler manufacturer said the furler was non-repairable.
Thats what Harken said too- it could not be repaired as there were no spare parts.

As it turned out, it needed no spare parts.

About 15 years ago, in Ardglass, I helped a bloke fix a knackered furlex-the steel balls had broken out of the lower bearing track and jammed solid on the tapered part of the 'stayloc' type endpiece.

I deep sixed the steel balls with flat sides and replaced them with rings of high quality 1/4 inch diameter electrical cable. It got him and his lovely Nick 34 back to the UK without issue.

It took two days to get it working. During this time, the mast was supported more than adequately by the spinnaker and jib halyards. It was a bit bouncy in the Harbour too.

As long as the halyards are in good nick and can be winched tight, what is the problem? The sail wont be applying a load, will it?

Some Marine professionals - but not all - give advice that is in their interest, rather than the customers. :(
 
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