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Plenty of sea going boats are kept and used on rivers . Better to have too much power than too little. A 34ft sports cruiser is fairly big for a first boat . Assuming you propose to gain experience in the UK before crossing the channel. We have slept 6 adults our similarly sized boat but...

If you go for cheap = inferior sources the risk is the same regardless of the anode material.

Tecnoseal is the brand for Aluminium anodes I have been using for the outdrives, and this time also for the trim tabs My bow thruster has a zinc anode. It is also available in Magnesium. I have not identified an Aluminium option.

The anodes for my boat were not on the shelf at the local chandlery and in any case the anodes they did have were priced quite a lot higher than online. Ordering online was no problem and delivery was within a few days . I think for a few pounds extra I could have had next day delivery. If...

I have been using aluminium anodes since 2015 on my present boat with anode changes every 2 years. I used them also on my previous boat over something like 4 years No known corrosion issues. The boat is kept in fresh water with occasional salty water trips.

Google found this Blauwe golf Kanaal door Walcheren + Dokbrug en Zeelandbrug | Watersportvereniging Arne

Should be almost run in .

May calorifier is about 2 metres from the engine in a straight line and must be well in excess of 3 metres in terms of hose length. It works fine.

I left it too long and found lots of crud which took a lot of work to flush out. It's just easier to change the coolant every two years assuming it's Ethylene Glycol coolant.

I would say probably not I am river based and do a lot of locks. The boat can easily be pulled forward when going up and usually get pulled backwards and forwards If only a single line is possible it should be middle cleat if there is one.

Also if going up put the boat as sensibly close as possible the downstream end of the lock as there will be less turbulence

Not necessarily

If you are going up never attach to the stern only If you are going down then stern only may well be okay I suggest moving the boat to get a line at the bow onto a riser them reverse , leaving plenty of slack to get a stern line on then adjust the ropes to put the boat somewhere between the...

You are not alone.

From a high level structural perspective first thought is it looks like the tunnel leaves an uncomfortably small amount of GRP remaining . Photographs looking from the inside may however add confidence .

If its soft antifoul try sanding mesh used wet on a sanding plate on a pole. It made the job of preparing the old antifoul repetitively easy and not too messy . I would't know how well this would work on hard antifoul.

I would have thought 40litres/hr a bit high but could be the case in unfriendly sea conditions with 30litres/hr achievable on reasonably smooth water . And more like 23 to 25 kts the most economical speed rather than 20 kts. I believe the fuel tank capacity is 220litres?

My chief officer wouldn't go out to sea in our S23 which was one of the reasons we bought a bigger boat.

In the mid cabin on the rear bulkhead on the starboard side is a removable panel held on with velcro. Remove this to reveal a grey box with breakers inside. The radio will have a car type fuse in the back of the radio unit, or do you mean the vhf?

I didn't go anywhere in the S23 that needed the arch folding. But really the ability to do so in a 23ft sports cruiser supplied as standard is a great feature. Do you have the canvas "sock" which wraps around the folded arch and roof canvas to make it more tidy ?