doris
Well-known member
As soon as the panels are made to be walked on the efficiency plummets and I don’t want a big goal post style arch on the stern for decent panels.
Maybe flexi roll outs may work in the future.
JPK 39FC
- Thread starter doris
- Start date
Maybe flexi roll outs may work in the future.
dunedin
Well-known member
We have semi flexible panels and work well. No arches for us either.
doris
Well-known member
Where do you mount and store them ?
Numbers
New member
Will you be having a battery up forward somewhere for your Windlass and Thruster?
I realise there would be voltage drop over a long run, but adding another battery does add extra complexity/connections ... could a long run of thicker cable be lighter than a second battery?
Is it set that it's all 12 volts ... or is there any option for 24 volts? (to reduce the thickness of any cable runs)
I realise there would be voltage drop over a long run, but adding another battery does add extra complexity/connections ... could a long run of thicker cable be lighter than a second battery?
Is it set that it's all 12 volts ... or is there any option for 24 volts? (to reduce the thickness of any cable runs)
Ryanwilliams
New member
I use to keep up with him
doris
Well-known member
And then you bought a H Rassey and he left you in his wake!
dunedin
Well-known member
I would have put on the coach roof but ours is teak so two on the sprayhood - which stays up for us, as have windscreen below.
One roving panel which gets moved around. Been seriously abused for 6-7 years with no detriment to function.
Abandoned a rigid panel which was too much hassle and now lives in garage.
John_Silver
Well-known member
Stargazer has an all roving set up. Using these SunWare TX panels. Basically 2 of their semi rigids mounted on a stout ‘canvas’ backing. So that they fold like a book. A pair stow well in the aft cabin. (Which is a much smaller affair than that on a JPK 39FC).
I had cringles added to each corner (for lashings) and loops added to the backs. The loops allow me to insert aluminium tubes. Which prevent the panels folding; and allow me to cantilever them off the cabin top, to avoid shadow.
At anchor, one usually lives just ahead of the mast. Off to one side, to avoid shadow from mast / forestay. The other is lashed to the cabin top grab rails, on whichever is the sunny side.
This set up is ‘tacked’ at turn of tide.
All channeled through Victron MPPT magic boxes.
During the ‘staycation’ year. When no ports would have us, we went 73 days, of a UK summer, with batteries kept fully charged, on this set up.Running fridge, lights, instruments etc at will.
The smaller SunWare semi rigid, which is visible, if you zoom in on my avatar picture (leaning against cabin side, up forward), has travelled from boat to boat. Since the late 90’s. Living in the aft cabin, unless at anchor. It’s holding up well.
I had cringles added to each corner (for lashings) and loops added to the backs. The loops allow me to insert aluminium tubes. Which prevent the panels folding; and allow me to cantilever them off the cabin top, to avoid shadow.
At anchor, one usually lives just ahead of the mast. Off to one side, to avoid shadow from mast / forestay. The other is lashed to the cabin top grab rails, on whichever is the sunny side.
This set up is ‘tacked’ at turn of tide.
All channeled through Victron MPPT magic boxes.
During the ‘staycation’ year. When no ports would have us, we went 73 days, of a UK summer, with batteries kept fully charged, on this set up.Running fridge, lights, instruments etc at will.
The smaller SunWare semi rigid, which is visible, if you zoom in on my avatar picture (leaning against cabin side, up forward), has travelled from boat to boat. Since the late 90’s. Living in the aft cabin, unless at anchor. It’s holding up well.
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doris
Well-known member
Chiara’s slave
Well-known member
We have an ‘extra’ panel on the sprayhood, we had eyes put on the hood for this purpose. It’s meant to be temporary but we only remove it for racing and cleaning. The other panels are behind the anchor locker, and on the coachroof in front of the mast. The 3 together are 250w which seems to serve our needs in uk, even though our outboard charging is pathetic. ThevJPK will have a stonking alternator by comparison, so a folding setup might well be almost all you need, plus maybe a permanent 80-100w panel to make sure you’re 100% ready to start the engine always.
Laser310
Well-known member
They seem quite expensive compared with other panels.
Numbers
New member
Doris (and others)
pardon me for being newbie ... Doris, you mentioned a Feather Stream propeller ... I've never heard of that brand ... but I see Gori folding props on YouTube everywhere.
would love to get some differing points of view of Featherstream versus Gori?
Can anyone illuminate on some Pros and Cons of each?
when the Gori blades fold back, is that better than the alternate option of simply 'feathering' the blades on the Feather Stream? (appears to be more wetted surface area for the feather stream, than the folded Gori?
Appreciate any advice
pardon me for being newbie ... Doris, you mentioned a Feather Stream propeller ... I've never heard of that brand ... but I see Gori folding props on YouTube everywhere.
would love to get some differing points of view of Featherstream versus Gori?
Can anyone illuminate on some Pros and Cons of each?
when the Gori blades fold back, is that better than the alternate option of simply 'feathering' the blades on the Feather Stream? (appears to be more wetted surface area for the feather stream, than the folded Gori?
Appreciate any advice
doris
Well-known member
I doubt you will notice much difference between the different folding props, they will all be much of a muchness except the expensive overdrive gear, which ‘might’ be worth the extra complexity. I’m not trying to be controversial, please don’t dive in.Doris (and others)
pardon me for being newbie ... Doris, you mentioned a Feather Stream propeller ... I've never heard of that brand ... but I see Gori folding props on YouTube everywhere.
would love to get some differing points of view of Featherstream versus Gori?
Can anyone illuminate on some Pros and Cons of each?
when the Gori blades fold back, is that better than the alternate option of simply 'feathering' the blades on the Feather Stream? (appears to be more wetted surface area for the feather stream, than the folded Gori?
Appreciate any advice
Feathering props will be much the same performance in forward, wetted area differences are so small to be an irrelevance for normal sailors. The huge difference is going astern. They give instant grip, its almost like putting one’s foot on the brake when parking a car. I changed to a Darglo Featherstream from a Flexofold on a Jeanneau 409 and parking in tricky conditions became much easier. In fast and put the brakes on, simples!
On the JPK, it comes with a Volvo 2 bladed folder. The credit for not having that will only be about £300 so I’ll take it, use it and see how I get on. If I find that parking is a pain then I may well get a Featherstream next time it gets lifted.
The chaps at Darglo are hugely helpful and very easy to talk to. I’ll likely get one of their rope cutters anyway.
