I have the following on a Zodiac Rib Compact 250 and they're excellent.
No springs or odd little catches to go wrong.. Stainless and good clearance from the outboard whilst under way..
Launching wheels for inflatable boats
and there's a YouTube video on that page showing them in use...
Brilliant.
Thanks for the update and for the additional photos and of course for a description of how the furler functions when the shackle is reversed!
Not my boat but I was up another mast last summer checking out a Plastimo furler and this video I took shows what happens when the wrong shackle is used at the top...
VicS posted a series of pictures in this previous thread showing how use of the wrong shackle at the top causes the issue with the halyard catching and trying to undo and release the bearng balls...
cranked shackle
Well spotted Alahol2. The cranked shackle needs to be in the location circled below..
Not using the cranked shackle does prevent the foil from turning... or it clicks brutally on each turn.
If it's not halyard wrap, then..
For the part that you pictured, the centre part bracketed below should rotate freely whilst you hold the foil extrusion (and the rest of the black part remains inline with the foil)..
Regarding the bottom, the aluminium foil extrusion and the black drum...
Others will come along later with specifics for a Contessa 28 mast, although yours might not be the original..
However, as Boathook mentions, there are some Selden mast sections that take cables tucked away either side of the track..
Extract here..
And the full Running Cables document by...
In January this year, PBO ran an article giving a number of reasons for using a marine grade regulator... and a number of reasons why you should not be using a standard (non-marine) one.
Beware using non-marine gas regulators - Practical Boat Owner
By 'often', I mean I've often recommended them to friends who have subsequently bought there. It's not because mine have failed and been replaced 'often'!