Recent content by MagicalArmchair

Sounds similar to the challenges I had on Mirage (Bav 40). I had painted copper based antifouling too close to the aluminium rudder tube, causing that to corrode which in turn crushed the Teflon washer. That then threatened to seize the steering entirely 🤣👍. Seizing up rudder on passage: How to...

Hello, it was an outfit called GoToEngineering, however, when I look for their details now I can't find them. I wonder if they have rebranded or moved? Look for a local aluminium welding company and then take the exchanger to them to talk the fix over with them. I've written the whole...

Hello there, I rebuilt it myself, and it was easy, satisfying and wonderful fun. Taking it off, and splitting all apart on the kitchen table was a perfect winter distraction, helped by my youngest boy. It hasn't leaked since. I can do a write up if you'd like? I think I have enough photos of...

Thank you all, that is great news there is nothing else I need to do to!

Hello all, Question: The below set up leads to there being a constant draw on the batteries, as the shunt is not switched. Is that usual? I'd much prefer to put a switch in the positive sides of the below to stop it draining my battereis when not attached to shore power? What do others do...

Thank you all for the responses. The house and starter banks are isolated from one another, so it should be fine. That is good news I don’t need the 1,000A version! Far cheaper!

Evening all, the cable on Mirage is 95mm battery cable, which is rated to 500A, so I presume the 500A version of the SmartShunt will be enough? I won't need the bigger 1,000A version? Victron Smart Shunt 500A/50mV The most meaty thing I have that takes draw is my windlass, that apparently...

After three years, I've popped the new stainless elbow off. Note, the studs are not galvanically isolated in anyway right now, and they appear ok. With the gasket on: Gasket removed: Closeup of the Studs: What was most alarming was the bolts holding the water injection elbow onto the...

Ha, yes, I had never considered that. The studs will still create a gavalnic circuit! I guess you could put TefGel onto the studs, thus insulating them from either the heat exchanger or the exhaust elbow? I don't think I put that on either end you know... ideally you would put it at both ends...

The guys at Parts4Engines have thought of that and with their exhaust elbow they provide a composite gasket. This creates a non conductive barrier between the stainless and the aluminium meaning - at least in theory - there should be no more corrosion ever again. I've had mine on for two years...

This is exactly the same situation I was in. The reason this happens, in Volvos own words, is: "Galvanic corrosion is caused by two dissimilar metals which are in direct physical contact with each other and are immersed in an electrolyte (a liquid that conducts electricity, such as sea water)...

Thank you all, thanks Vyv. That is interesting. I wonder if this is what FYB are referring to? Volvo Penta D2-55A and D2-55B Stainless Steel exhaust outlet and connector So the above casting would potentially, after a period of time, suffer the same kind of fatigue? How common is this and...

Hello friends, I replaced my stock d2 55 exhaust elbow with the stainless steel version from the fine folk at parts4engines during my heat exchanger rebuild adventure (Heat exchanger repair). I'm going to do a proper write up of this to help others, and doing my reading around the subject I...

I noted a little splash of oil under the raw water pump so I thought I had best get it off to take a look behind it. I wasn't going to replace the impeller this year, as I tend to replace it every other year. Last year I'd replaced it and replaced the faceplate and impeller (the photo below is...

Glad to help and glad someone has found the write up useful. You do often wonder when you write this stuff if anyone will ever read it. Glad you can cross another job off your list!!